Chicken Coop Build Instructions

Before you start

This guide walks through the coop build phase by phase. Each phase has a time estimate, materials reference, step-by-step instructions, and callouts for tips, common mistakes, and checkpoints to verify your progress.

Read each phase fully before starting it. Some steps depend on others. Don't skip ahead — the order is intentional.

Documents you'll want at the build site

Architectural drawings A1-A12 (full set)
Materials list (coop-materials-list.xlsx) — print or keep on phone
This document — keep nearby during framing

Tools you'll need

Power tools

Circular saw (essential)
Drill/driver — at least one, ideally two (one for drilling pilot holes, one for driving screws)
Miter saw (optional but speeds up repetitive cuts)
Reciprocating saw or jigsaw (for cleanout openings, irregular cuts)
Nail gun (optional rental — speeds framing significantly)
Power auger (rental, for footer holes — much faster than digging by hand)

Hand tools

Tape measure (25' minimum, two if you can — one stays at saw, one in pocket)
Speed square (essential for marking framing angles, especially rafter birdsmouth)
4' level (for posts and walls)
Combination square or framing square
Hammer (16-22 oz framing hammer)
Tin snips (for hardware cloth)
Utility knife
Pencil + carpenter's pencil + sharpener
Chalk line
Sawhorses or workbench
Step ladder (6' minimum) and an extension ladder (or two step ladders)

Safety equipment

Safety glasses (one pair stays on your head all day)
Hearing protection (when using power tools)
Work gloves — leather for handling lumber, cut-resistant for hardware cloth
Dust mask or respirator (for cutting PT lumber especially)
Knee pads (your knees will thank you on day 8)
Closed-toe boots, ideally steel-toed

⚠ SAFETY

Pressure-treated lumber: always wear a dust mask when cutting PT lumber. The treatment chemicals are inhalation hazards. Cut PT lumber outdoors when possible. Don't burn PT scraps — bag and dispose with regular trash.

Site preparation

Choosing the spot

Coop should face roughly south or southeast for morning sun and warmth (the south wall has the cleanouts and Dutch door per spec)
Slight slope is OK; you'll level the foundation. Steep slope means more concrete and longer posts.
Clear of trees that drop heavy branches; keep at least 6' from any structure for ventilation and access
Within reach of a hose for water (chickens drink ~1 cup per hen per day in summer)
Verify setbacks: typically 5' from property lines in SLC residential zones — check local zoning

Layout

Mark the coop footprint (v11: 5' × 10') and the run footprint (16' × 4', extending west of the coop per Sheet A1) with stakes and string
Verify diagonals to ensure square: a v11 5×10 rectangle has diagonals of √(25+100) = 11.18' (or 11'-2-3/16"). Both diagonals should match within ½".
Mark post locations with marking paint or stakes. The coop has 4 posts (one at each corner of the 5'×10' rectangle (v11), all on concrete footers). The run has 8 posts: 4 corners (on concrete footers, matching the coop) and 4 mid-span (on deck blocks — one on each long edge at 5'-4" and 10'-8" from the west end). Total: 8 concrete-footer holes to dig + 4 deck-block pads to scrape and level.
Strip sod under the coop footprint to prevent grass growth into the structure

✓ CHECKPOINT

Before starting Phase 1: site is cleared, marked with stakes, footprint is verified square, you have all required materials on-site, and you've reviewed the architectural drawings.

🛒 Shopping List (coop)

Coop-only, pulled from your materials list. Foundation items you’ve already bought (concrete, Sonotubes, EPB brackets) and all run materials are excluded. Tap to check off in the store.

Buy first — posts & floor frame · ~$448

What you need to set posts and build the deck on your poured footers.

1 board 4x4 PT post — 8 ft length, ground-contact rated $221 each EPB post fasteners (nails or SD10 screws) — (8) per bracket: 0.162"×3½" connector nails OR SD10 1½" connector screws $134 board 2x10 PT rim joist — 10 ft length, ground-contact rated $941 board 2x6 PT end joist — 2×6 PT × 10 ft, cut into 2× 54" $154 board 2x6 PT floor joist — 2×6 PT × 10 ft (2 cuts of 54" each) $6014 each Simpson LUS26 joist hanger — 2x6 face-mount hanger, galvanized $351 box Joist hanger nails (0.148"×3" / 10d) — 0.148" × 3" (10d) hot-dip galvanized $151 box Exterior deck screws — 2½" exterior/structural screws (5 lb box) $182 sheet 3/4" PT plywood — ¾" PT plywood, 4×8 sheet (square edge) $11660 sqft Sheet vinyl / rolled linoleum — 6-ft or 12-ft wide roll, residential grade $60

Structural shell — walls & roof framing · ~$546

Add to the same trip, or come back once the floor is down.

12 board 2x4 SPF stud — 8 ft length, #2 grade $4824 board 2x4 SPF stud — 10 ft length, #2 grade $1324 board 2x6 SPF top plate — 10 ft length, #2 grade $384 board 2x6 SPF top plate — 8 ft length, #2 grade $281 box Framing nails — 16d common bright, 5 lb $181 box Sinker nails — 8d galvanized, 1 lb $812 each 1/4" x 3" lag screws — Galvanized, with washers $148 board 2x6 SPF rafter stock — 12 ft length, #2 grade $921 board 2x8 SPF ridge board — 10 ft length, #2 grade $1318 each Simpson H1 hurricane tie — Galvanized rafter-to-plate connector $151 box Hurricane tie nails — 1.5" Simpson SDS or N10 $121 lot Cupola materials (assembled) — 2x2, 1x4 louvers, 1/2" OSB scrap, finial $504 sheet 1/2" OSB sheathing — 4x8 sheet $681 box 8d ring shank nails — For OSB attachment, 1 lb $9

Fasteners & misc (with the shell) · ~$119

1 box Wood screws assortment — #8 x 3" exterior, 1 lb box $141 box Wood screws short — #8 x 1-1/4", 1 lb box $91 bottle Wood glue — Titebond III exterior, 16 oz $121 pack Sandpaper — Assorted grit pack, 80-220 $121 each Tarp — 8x10 tarp $12150 each Structural wood screws — #10 x 3-1/2" exterior structural screws (GRK, SPAX, or similar) $60

Envelope & finish — later trips · ~$1,933

Weeks out; several are weather- or theft-sensitive, so buy closer to install.

1 roll 30# roofing felt — 36" x 144 sqft roll $304 bundle Architectural shingles — Hunter green, ~33 sqft per bundle $1441 bundle Hip and ridge shingles — 20-25 lf per bundle $504 piece Drip edge metal — 10 ft length, white or brown $321 box Roofing nails — 1-1/4" galvanized, 1 lb $91 piece Roof flashing — Step or apron flashing for cupola base $1528 board 1x8 pine board — 8 ft length, primed pine $30823 board 1x3 pine batten — 8 ft length, primed pine $1154 board 1x6 pine fascia — 10 ft length, primed pine $486 board 1x4 pine corner trim — 8 ft length, primed pine $428 board 1x4 pine window/door trim — 8 ft length, primed pine $561 box Exterior trim screws — #8 x 2.5" stainless or coated, 1 lb $141 each Dutch door (built or pre-fab) — 32" x 58", split horizontally $7520 board 1x6 T&G pine boards — 6 ft length, for built doors $1604 each Strap hinge, 6" black — Heavy-duty for Dutch door halves $3212 each T-hinge, 4" black — For cleanouts and access panels $606 each Gate latch with eye — Predator-proof, locking $728 each Hook and eye, 3" — For interior props (doors held open) $168 each Chain or rope for door props — 36" length per door $241 piece Dutch door astragal trim — 1x2 pine, 32" length, weatherstripped $51 roll 1/2" galvanized HW cloth — 36" x 100ft roll $1951 roll 1/2" galvanized HW cloth — 36" x 25ft roll (extra) $601 box Poultry staples — 1" galvanized, 1 lb $8300 each HW cloth screws + washers — Self-tapping screws with neoprene washers $1201 gal Exterior paint, white — 1 gallon, semi-gloss exterior latex $481 qt Exterior trim paint — 1 quart, contrasting accent $181 gal Exterior primer — 1 gallon, white primer $321 set Paint brushes/rollers — Quality 2.5" brush + 9" roller kit $252 board 2x4 SPF roost bar — 8 ft, sand edges round $81 sheet Plywood for shelf — 1/2" CDX, 4x8 sheet $351 sheet Plywood for cabinet — 1/2" CDX, 4x8 sheet $351 sheet Plywood for nest box — 1/2" CDX, 4x4 half-sheet $183 each Astroturf mat (artificial turf) — Indoor/outdoor, ~12" x 18" pieces $24

Coop total still to buy: ~$3,046

Tip: sort lumber at the store — sight down each board and reject bowed/twisted ones. Straightest boards for plates and rafters. And bring your EPB44HDG fastener: (8) 0.162×3½ nails OR (8) Simpson SD10 1½″ connector screws per bracket (the SD10 screws drive with your impact driver).

Construction Basics

Construction basics — read this first if you’re new to building

This section explains the standard practices the rest of this guide assumes you already know. If you’ve framed before, skim or skip it. If this is your first real build, read it once before Phase 1 and refer back to it — the phases will say things like “toe-nail” or “check for crown” without re-explaining, and those terms are defined here.

The one thing that matters most: SQUARE, LEVEL, PLUMB

Three words you’ll see constantly. SQUARE means corners are true 90° (checked by measuring diagonals — see below). LEVEL means perfectly horizontal (checked with a level’s bubble). PLUMB means perfectly vertical (also a level, held against a stud face). Almost every “why doesn’t this fit” problem on a small build traces back to something that wasn’t square, level, or plumb early on. Spend the extra ten minutes each time — an error here multiplies as you build up.

Checking square by diagonals (the 3-4-5 / diagonal method): Any rectangle is square when its two diagonal measurements (corner to opposite corner) are equal. Measure one diagonal, then the other; if they match, it’s square. If not, push/rack the frame toward the longer diagonal until they’re equal. For your 5×10 coop floor the diagonals should both be 11′-2-3/16″ and match within about 1/8″. This single check — equal diagonals — is the most important habit in the whole build.

Fasteners: what to use where

When a step doesn’t name a specific fastener, use this default schedule. “d” (as in 16d) is the old “penny” nail-size system; 16d ≈ 3-1/2″, 10d ≈ 3″, 8d ≈ 2-1/2″. Structural screws (e.g. Simpson SDWS, or GRK) are engineered to carry load; deck screws and drywall screws are NOT structural and snap under shear — never use drywall screws in framing.

Framing, general (stud to plate, plate to plate)

Fastener16d framing nails or 3″ structural/construction screws

Spacing / notes2 per stud end through the plate; 16″ o.c. plate-to-plate

Bottom plate to floor frame

Fastener16d nails or 3″ structural screws

Spacing / notes16″ o.c., and within 12″ of each corner

Rim/end joists, joist hangers

FastenerSimpson-approved joist-hanger nails (1-1/2″ for hangers) or SD screws

Spacing / notesFill EVERY hole in the hanger — do not skip holes

Floor & roof sheathing (plywood/OSB)

Fastener2½″ exterior/deck screws or 8d ring-shank nails

Spacing / notes6″ o.c. on panel edges, 12″ o.c. in the field (middle)

Hurricane ties / Simpson connectors

FastenerThe exact Simpson nail/screw the connector calls for

Spacing / notesFill EVERY hole; the rating assumes a full nail pattern

Trim, fascia, siding battens

Fastener2″ exterior trim/finish screws or 8d galvanized finish nails

Spacing / notesInto framing where possible, not just into sheathing

Hardware cloth to framing

Fastener1″ poultry/fencing staples or screws with fender washers

Spacing / notesEvery 3″–4″ around all edges — raccoons pull at gaps

When in doubt, screws are more forgiving for a first-timer than nails: they drive straight, hold immediately, and back out if you make a mistake. The build goes slower with screws but with far less frustration. Buy more than you think — running out mid-wall is the most common supply-run trigger.

Framing terms you’ll see in the phases

Toe-nail / toe-screw: driving a fastener at an angle through the end or side of one board into another when you can’t fasten straight through. Start the screw at ~45°, about 1″ up from the joint. Drill a pilot hole first so the wood doesn’t split.

Crown: most lumber has a slight bow along its edge. Sight down each board; the high side of the bow is the “crown.” Install joists and studs crown-UP (for joists) or crown-consistent (for studs) so the frame settles flat. Mark the crown with a pencil arrow as you sort lumber.

On-center (o.c.): spacing measured from the center of one member to the center of the next, not the gap between them. “16″ o.c.” studs are 16″ center-to-center. Hook your tape on the end and mark at 15-1/4″, 31-1/4″… (the 3/4″ offset puts the first stud’s CENTER at 16″) — or simpler: mark every 16″ and center each stud on the mark.

King stud / jack stud: around a door or window opening, the KING runs full height on each side; the JACK (or trimmer) is shorter, sits against the king, and holds up the header. The header sits on the jacks. King and jack are nailed/screwed together face-to-face.

Cripple stud: a short stud above a header or below a sill, keeping the regular 16″ spacing going so sheathing has something to grab.

Rough opening (RO): the framed hole for a door or window, cut larger than the door/window itself to leave room for shimming square. If a hardware item’s real size differs slightly from the plan, the RO is where you absorb it.

Birdsmouth: the notch cut into a rafter where it sits on the top of the wall, so the rafter beds flat on the plate instead of balancing on a point. Phase 5 walks through marking it with a speed square.

The standard way to build a wall (you’ll do this 4 times)

Walls are built lying flat on the floor deck, then tilted up. The order is always: (1) cut the top and bottom plates to length and lay them side by side; (2) mark stud positions on both plates at once so they line up; (3) lay the studs flat between the plates and screw through the plates into the stud ends; (4) add the opening framing (kings, jacks, header, sill, cripples); (5) check the wall is square by diagonals while it’s still flat — this is far easier now than after it’s standing; (6) optionally sheath or attach siding while flat (much easier than on a standing wall); (7) tilt the wall up, plumb it with a level, and screw the bottom plate to the floor; (8) brace it temporarily with a diagonal 2×4 to a stake or the deck so it can’t fall, and leave the brace until the adjacent walls and roof lock it in place. Phases 3 and 4 cover this in detail; this is the big-picture version so the steps make sense.

Lumber is never perfect — expect to adjust

Real boards are bowed, cupped, twisted, and a little over or under their nominal size (a “2×4” is actually 1-1/2″ × 3-1/2″). This is normal. Sort your lumber when it arrives: straightest boards for plates and rafters, decent ones for studs, worst ones cut up for blocking and cripples. When a dimension in the plans and the real world disagree by a little, trust the PHYSICAL fit over the drawing — measure the actual opening before cutting the piece that fills it, and cut the filler to what you measure. “Measure twice, cut once” is real; so is “measure the actual gap, then cut.” The cut list quantities have spares built in for exactly this reason.

Pilot holes and pressure-treated lumber

Near the end of a board, or with screws over 2-1/2″, drill a pilot hole first or the wood splits. For the pressure-treated (PT) lumber used in the floor frame and posts, use fasteners and connectors rated for PT/exterior use (hot-dip galvanized, ZMAX, or stainless) — ordinary steel corrodes fast against PT chemicals. Your Simpson connectors and exterior screws already meet this; just don’t substitute random indoor screws on the floor frame.

A realistic mindset

You will make mistakes and the coop will still be fine — chickens are forgiving tenants. A gap you can patch, a board you cut twice, a wall you re-plumb: all normal. The things that actually matter and are hard to fix later are the ones this guide flags as CHECKPOINTS: square floor, plumb walls, a weather-tight roof, and a predator-proof envelope (no gaps over 1/2″, hardware cloth everywhere, every connector hole filled). Get those right and the rest is cosmetic. When a step genuinely stumps you, stop and ask rather than guessing on something structural — that instinct is worth more than experience.

Phase 1 · Foundation and posts

Estimated time: 2 days (concrete cure overnight)

Set the foundation for both the coop and run. The coop uses 4 concrete footers at 24" depth with Simpson EPB44HDG brackets. The run uses a hybrid approach: 4 concrete footers with EPB44HDG brackets at the corners (matching the coop) plus 4 surface deck blocks at the mid-span posts. This gives the run real anchoring at the corners — where lateral, racking, and impact loads concentrate — while keeping the mid-span posts simple and inexpensive. The result is a run stable enough for kids to climb on or run into without the structure shifting.

Building in phases (coop now, run later)

Many builders complete the coop first, then build the run weeks or months later. This is fully supported by the plans. If you're building coop-first:

Complete only the coop-foundation steps in this phase: 4 coop footer holes (Step 1), 4 coop concrete pours with EPB44HDG brackets, and the 4 × 20" coop posts (Step 16).
Skip the run-related steps for now (the 4 run-corner footer holes in Step 2, the run-corner concrete pours, the 4 mid-span deck blocks, and the run-post installation).
Drive 4 stakes at the run corner positions now and verify the run rectangle is square: diagonals should be 16'-6", width 4'-0", east end aligned with the coop's west wall. The stakes hold position through the coop build and lock in the run footprint.
When you're ready to build the run, return to the run-foundation steps below before starting Phase 12 (Run construction). Dig the 4 run-corner holes, pour 4 footers with EPB44HDG brackets, set the 4 mid-span deck blocks and rebar pins, then cut and install the run posts.
During coop construction, install the west wall siding normally. The run will later tuck against it — some siding will be hidden behind the run roof and posts, but that's fine.

Why the hybrid approach

Wind loads alone (even 70 mph SLC gusts) aren't what controls the design — the run's own weight resists wind adequately once the rebar pins are in place.
Human loads are 3-5× larger than wind loads. A child hanging on the door, swinging on a top rail, or running into the wall imposes lateral kick-out forces at the post base that rebar pins can't resist (the pin lets the post pivot like a hinge).
Concrete footers + EPB44HDG brackets at the 4 corners provide positive mechanical anchorage against all load types: uplift, lateral, racking, and freeze-heave.
Mid-span posts only support the rails between corners — they don't see concentrated lateral loads, so deck blocks with rebar pins are fine there.
This adds ~$140 in materials and ~3-4 hours of digging vs. all-deck-block approach. A worthwhile tradeoff given that kids will use the structure.

Materials for this phase

Coop: 4 × 10" Sonotube concrete forms (sold as 48" tubes; cut each to 27" before installing — 24" below grade + 3" reveal)
Coop: 14 × 50-lb bags Quikrete Fast-Setting concrete (no-mix sonotube formulation; 3 bags per footer + 2 buffer)
Coop: 1 × 50-lb bag drainage gravel (¾" crushed) — 1-2" layer at bottom of each footer hole
Coop: 4 × Simpson EPB44HDG post bases (HDG, deep-saddle cast-in-place, fixed 1" standoff)
Coop: 1 × 4×4 PT × 8' (cut into 4 × 20" posts)
Run corners: 4 × 10" Sonotube concrete forms (cut to 27" each; deferred to run construction)
Run corners: 12 × 50-lb bags Quikrete Fast-Setting concrete (same product as coop; deferred to run construction)
Run corners: 4 × Simpson EPB44HDG post bases (deferred to run construction)
Run mid-span: 4 × precast deck blocks with 4×4 notch (Pylex or generic, ~$12 each at HD)
Run mid-span: 2 × 50-lb bags of crushed gravel (3/4" drainage gravel for leveling pads)
Run mid-span: 4 × #3 rebar pins, 18" long (drive through deck block into soil)
Run: 8 × 4×4 PT × 8' lumber (run posts — cut to height in Phase 12)
EPB44HDG post fasteners: (8) 0.162" × 3½" nails per bracket — Simpson’s specified fastener for the EPB post-to-base connection (32 nails for 4 coop brackets). Alternatively, (8) Simpson SD10 1½" connector screws per bracket (impact-driver friendly) are Simpson-approved for the EPB44. Fill every hole in the saddle.

Tools for this phase

Power auger (rental) or post hole digger — for 8 holes total (4 coop + 4 run corners)
Wheelbarrow
Mason's hoe or shovel for mixing concrete
4' level
Tape measure
Garden hose with sprayer (for concrete water)
Hand tamper or 4×4 offcut (for compacting gravel pads under deck blocks)
Line level or laser level (you'll level all 8 EPB44HDG brackets to one elevation, then level all 4 mid-span deck blocks to match)
3-4 lb hand sledge (for driving rebar pins through deck blocks into soil)

Part A: Dig all 8 holes (Day 1 morning)

Step 1. Dig the four coop post holes at the marked corner locations. Holes should be 12" diameter and 27-29" deep — slightly deeper than the 27" tube length to allow a 1-2" gravel drainage layer at the bottom. The 12" hole accommodates a 10" Sonotube with about ¾" of working clearance on all sides. A power auger with a 12" bit makes this fast — about 7 minutes per hole vs 30-45 by hand. (Note: SLC frost line is around 30", but accessory structures under 200 sq ft are typically exempt from frost-depth requirements, and 24" of embedment is plenty for this load.)Step 2. Dig the four run-corner holes at the corners of the 4'×16' run rectangle, using the same dimensions as the coop holes (12" Ø × 27-29" deep). Reference Sheet A1 for the exact positions: the two west-end corners (NW and SW) sit 4'-6" off the property fence; the two east-end corners (NE and SE) align with the coop's west wall. The SE corner sits 1' north of the coop's SW corner (v11: run is narrower than the coop on the south side; v11 step reduced from 2' to 1'). In coop-first mode, defer this step until you're ready to build the run.

Part B: Set concrete footers (Day 1 afternoon)

Step 3. Drop a 10" Sonotube into each hole — for coop-first mode, this is the 4 coop holes. Each tube should be pre-cut to 27" length: 24" embedded + 3" reveal above grade. Before dropping the tube, place 1-2" of drainage gravel at the bottom of each hole (from the 50-lb bag, F13) and tamp lightly. The tube sits on this gravel layer. Plumb the tube with a 4' level held against the outside. While holding plumb, backfill the gap between tube and hole walls with the dug-out soil, tamping with a 2×4 every 4-6" of fill depth. The 3" tube reveal should remain above grade after backfilling.Step 4. Pour dry concrete into each tube. Use Quikrete Fast-Setting no-mix concrete (50-lb bags, F01). For each footer: pour 1 full bag dry into the tube, then add water (about 5 pints / 2.5 quarts per bag) slowly on top. Watch the mix darken as water penetrates downward. Add a second bag dry on top, then more water. Then the third bag, then more water. The goal is full saturation without standing water on top — if water pools, stop and wait for it to soak in.Step 5. After adding water to each layer, rod the mix with a piece of rebar or a long stick. Push the rod down through the wet mix 4-6 times per layer, moving up and down (not side to side). This releases air pockets and helps water penetrate to the bottom of the column. The cardboard tube doesn't let water escape sideways the way bare dirt does, so rodding matters more than for a fence post. Top off the tube to within 1" of the rim with a final small amount of dry mix and water.Step 6. Set the Simpson EPB44HDG (HDG (hot-dip galvanized)) bracket into the wet concrete within 5-10 minutes of pouring the top layer. The bracket has a stem that embeds in the concrete; the four mounting wings sit on top. Press the bracket down until the wings rest on the wet concrete surface, with the bracket centered on the post location.Step 7. Verify the bracket is level (use your 4' level on top of the wings) and aligned square with the rectangle footprint. Adjust by hand while concrete is still wet. Hold for 2-3 minutes until concrete starts to set.Step 8. Set EPB44HDG brackets square to the string layout before concrete cures. Verify diagonals are equal between bracket centers: coop diagonals should be 11'-2-3/16" on a v11 5'×10' rectangle; run-corner diagonals 16'-6" on a 4'×16' rectangle. Repeat for all 8 footers (4 coop + 4 run corners). After concrete sets, the layout is fixed.Step 9. Get all 8 brackets to the same elevation above grade — this step is worth slowing down for. Use a line level or laser across all 8 bracket tops. Differences in bracket height translate directly into post-height differences, which cascade into an uneven coop floor and crooked run top rails. Aim for ±¼" across all 8 brackets. If a bracket sits slightly low, you can add a steel shim plate under the post later; if it sits high, plan to trim that post a bit short.Step 10. Let concrete cure overnight (or per manufacturer cure time, usually 4-8 hours for fast-setting). Don't load the brackets during cure.

Part C: Set the 4 mid-span run deck blocks (Day 2 morning)

Step 11. Mark the 4 mid-span deck block locations on each long edge of the run: one at 5'-4" from the west end on the N edge, one at 10'-8" on the N edge, and mirror images on the S edge. These sit between the corner footers you set in Part B.Step 12. At each deck block location, scrape away grass and topsoil to expose firm subsoil — about 4" deep and 16" square. Save the sod for patching later.Step 13. Add 2-3" of crushed gravel into each excavated spot. Tamp firm with the back of a shovel or a 4×4 offcut. The gravel provides drainage so the block doesn't sit in standing water.Step 14. Set a deck block on each gravel pad. Each block must sit at the same elevation as the run-corner EPB44HDG brackets — top of bracket should match top of block within ½". Use a string line or straight 2×4 stretched between corner brackets to gauge. Adjust by adding or removing gravel under the block.Step 15. Drive an 18" #3 rebar pin through each deck block's center hole into the soil below, using a hand sledge. Drive until the top of the rebar is flush with or slightly below the top of the block. This anchors the block against freeze-heave 'walking' over winter cycles. The rebar is the corner-footers' equivalent for mid-span — it can't resist lateral kick-out, but mid-span posts don't see those loads.

Part D: Set the posts (Day 2 afternoon)

Step 16. Cut the 4×4 PT × 8' board into four 20" lengths (cut F-1) for the coop. Set aside any pieces with cracks or splits. Insert each 20" post into its EPB44HDG bracket saddle. Fasten the post to the bracket with (8) 0.162" × 3½" nails — fill every hole in the saddle or (8) Simpson SD10 1½" connector screws per bracket — the screw alternative Simpson approves for the EPB44, driven with a drill/impact driver. Fill every hole either way.Step 17. Leave the 8 run posts (full 8' lengths) uncut for now — they'll be cut to the asymmetric run wall heights in Phase 12 once you've finalized your wall framing. The 4 run-corner posts sit in the EPB44HDG brackets just like coop posts (fasten with the (8) 0.162" × 3½" nails per bracket, filling every hole). The 4 mid-span posts drop into the deck-block notches; secure each to its block with a 3" lag screw through the block's pre-drilled side hole.

! WATCH OUT

Concrete work timing: Quikrete fast-setting starts curing in 20-40 minutes once water hits it. Pour one footer at a time — pour dry, add water, rod, top off, set bracket — and finish each before starting the next. Hose down tools and the bracket setting area immediately if any concrete splashes; it's permanent once dry on metal. Work with a helper if possible: one person handles dry mix and water, the other handles bracket positioning and leveling.

💡 TIP

Cure-time pro tip: While concrete cures overnight, you can stage materials for Phase 2 (floor framing). Pull all the PT lumber out, sort by size, and check for warps. Doing this now saves time on Day 3.

✓ CHECKPOINT

End of Phase 1: All 4 coop EPB44HDG brackets set in concrete, 20" coop posts installed, level, plumb, square (11'-2-3/16" diagonals equal on v11 5×10 coop). All 4 run-corner EPB44HDG brackets set in concrete at matching elevation. All 4 mid-span run deck blocks set on gravel pads, anchored with rebar pins, at same elevation as run corners. Run rectangle is square (16'-6" diagonals equal). All concrete is fully cured. The run-corner and mid-span posts can all be loaded without the foundation moving.

Phase 2 · Floor framing and decking

Estimated time: 1 day

Build the floor structure on top of the posts: rim joists, end joists, intermediate floor joists, and plywood deck. After this, you have a flat platform to frame walls on.

Materials for this phase

4 × 2×10 PT × 10' (rim joists, doubled N & S)
2 × 2×6 PT × 6' or 8' (end joists E & W)
4 × 2×6 PT × 12' (cut F-4: 7 × 54" floor joists + 1 spare = 8 cuts at 54" — v11)
14 × Simpson LUS26 joist hangers
1 box joist hanger nails
2 × ¾" PT plywood (or 3 sheets if buying insurance)
16d framing nails or 3" structural screws

Tools for this phase

Drill/driver
Circular saw
Speed square
Tape measure
Hammer
4' level
Chalk line

Steps

Step 1. Lay one 2×10 PT × 10' on top of the N and S post rows. The rim joist sits on top of the posts, flush with the post outside face. Verify level along the length of each rim joist.Step 2. Toe-nail or screw each rim joist to its supporting post (3-4 fasteners per post). The rim joists are now your reference for floor frame placement.Step 3. Position the second 2×10 PT × 10' on top of the first (doubled rim joist). Nail the two boards together with 10d nails every 16" on center. Repeat for the south side.Step 4. Cut the 2 × 2×6 PT end joists to fit between the doubled rim joists (5' wall width minus 2× rim joist thickness = 54" for actual cut length, v11). Verify by measurement.Step 5. Install end joists between the rim joists, flush with the post outside faces. Use Simpson LUS26 joist hangers or toe-nail through the rim joists into the end joists. The floor frame is now a complete rectangle.Step 6. Mark the rim joists for floor joist locations: 16" on center, starting from one end. Spacing runs along the 10' (120") E-W rim joist length: joist locations are at 16", 32", 48", 64", 80", 96", 112" (7 intermediate joists). Each joist itself spans 4'-6" N-S in v11 (was 5'-6" in v10). Make the mark on both N and S rim joists at the same positions.Step 7. Install LUS26 joist hangers at each marked position on both rim joists (14 hangers total). Drive the included joist hanger nails into all hanger holes.Step 8. Cut the 7 floor joists from 2×6 PT × 12' (cut F-4: 54" each — v11). Place each joist into its hangers and drive joist hanger nails through the hanger sides into the joist.Step 9. Verify the floor frame is square: measure both diagonals corner to corner; they should match within ¼".Step 10. Lay the ¾" PT plywood. With 2 sheets covering v11 5×10 = 50 sqft: Sheet 1 full piece on one side (covers ~32 sqft); Sheet 2 cut to fill remaining ~18 sqft. See the cut list for the exact v11 cut plan (24"×60" piece + 12"×96" piece). Plan the cuts so seams land over joists. Stagger seams between sheets.Step 11. Screw plywood to joists with 2½" exterior screws every 6" on edges, 12" in field. Don't use nails — screws hold better in PT lumber and won't pop.

! WATCH OUT

PT lumber is heavier and often wetter than SPF. The 2×10 × 10' rim joists weigh about 35 pounds each. Get a helper for lifting them onto the posts, or use a temporary support (sawhorse or block) under the middle while you set the ends.

💡 TIP

If your floor isn't perfectly square after step 9 (more than ¼" off), tap the corners with a hammer or pull diagonally with a strap to bring it square before installing the plywood. Once the plywood is screwed down, you can't easily adjust.

✓ CHECKPOINT

End of Phase 2: Flat, square floor platform 5' × 10' sitting 18" above grade (v11). Plywood is fully fastened. You can walk on it without bounce. Joist hangers are properly installed on both ends of every floor joist.

Phase 3 · Wall framing — flat assembly

Estimated time: 2 days

Build all 4 walls flat on the deck, one at a time. Walls are framed lying down (much easier than building vertically), then raised into position. The south wall is the most complex due to multiple openings.

Materials for this phase

All 2×4 SPF stud lumber (36 boards: 12 × 8' + 24 × 10' — v11)
All 2×6 SPF top plate lumber (8 boards: 4 × 10' + 4 × 8')
16d framing nails (or structural screws)
8d sinker nails (for toe-nailing)

Order of wall framing

Frame 1: South wall (most complex — practice your technique on the easiest pieces first by doing a non-South wall first if you prefer; otherwise tackle South while you're fresh)
Frame 2: North wall (2 sliders — moderate complexity)
Frame 3: East wall (gable wall with nest cluster)
Frame 4: West wall (gable wall, simplest)

General framing technique

For each wall

Step 1. Lay the bottom plate flat on the deck where the wall will go (along the floor edge). Lay the bottom of the doubled top plate stack alongside it (one of the two top plates), with the inside faces down.Step 2. Mark stud positions on both plates simultaneously. Use a speed square to draw layout lines across both plates. Standard layout: 16" on center, with corner studs at 0", first 16" o.c. position at 15.25" (so the stud center is at 16"), continuing across.Step 3. Mark openings for windows, doors, cleanouts. Mark the king studs (full-height, on either side of opening), jack studs (shorter, support the header), and cripples (above and below the opening).Step 4. Cut all studs and opening framing for this wall — refer to Sheet A8 for stud positions, lengths, and opening dimensions. Have all pieces ready before assembly — don't assemble half a wall and then cut more pieces.Step 5. Lay studs between the plates with crowns oriented up (look down each stud's edge for the slight curve; place crown side up so it doesn't sag over time). Toe-nail or end-nail studs to plates with 16d nails — 2 nails per joint.Step 6. Build any headers separately and insert into the opening framing. A header is typically two pieces of 2×4 sandwiching a piece of ½" plywood (for a 3.5" thick header that fits flush in a 2×4 wall). Length = opening width + 3" (1.5" bearing on each jack).Step 7. Install the second top plate on top of the first to complete the doubled top plate. Stagger the joints in the doubled plate (don't align them). Nail with 16d every 16" o.c.Step 8. Square the wall: measure the diagonals; they should match. If off, tap the wall corners with a hammer or pull diagonally.Step 9. Once square, install diagonal corner bracing or temporary 1×4 let-in bracing to keep the wall square during raising.

Specific instructions per wall

South wall (most complex — see Sheet A8)

This wall has 2 cleanouts, 2 lower access panels, a 72" transom window, and a Dutch door. Take your time.

Bottom plate: 1 × 2×4 SPF × 10' (full length)
Doubled top plate: 2 × 2×6 SPF × 10' (laid flat, full length, doubled)
Full-height studs at coop-x: 0, 2, 81, 88, 120 (5 studs at 58.5")
Center kings at coop-x: 40, 43 (2 short kings at 46.5" — stop at cleanout header line)
Jack studs at: 2, 40, 43, 81 (4 jacks at 44.5" — supporting cleanout headers)
Dutch door jacks at: 88, 120 (2 jacks at 57" — supporting Dutch door header)
Cleanout headers: 2 × doubled 2×4 × 41"
Cleanout sills: 2 × 2×4 × 38"
Transom sill: 1 × 2×4 × 72" (single piece spanning the transom area)
Dutch door header: 1 × 2×4 × 36"
Cripples (between bottom plate and cleanout sills, between transom sill and... see A8 for details): approximately 6 short cripples at varying lengths

💡 TIP

The transom area on the south wall has the doubled 2×6 top plate acting as the integrated header. This is the structural decision documented on Sheet A8. There's no separate transom header — the doubled top plate provides 19% safety margin over the 79" transom span.

North wall (Sheet A9 — 2 sliders)

Bottom plate: 1 × 2×4 SPF × 10'
Doubled top plate: 2 × 2×6 SPF × 10'
Full-height studs at corners (0, 120) and slider kings: 11 total
Slider headers: 2 × doubled 2×4 × 27" (24" RO + 3")
Slider sills and cripples per A9

East wall (Sheet A9 — gable, with nest cluster)

Bottom plate: 1 × 2×4 SPF × 53" (v11; cut from 8' board, fits between N and S wall plates)
Doubled top plate: 2 × 2×6 SPF × 53" (v11)
Full-height (plate-height) studs: 5 total per A9 — 2 corners + nest-cluster kings + intermediate at 16" o.c. across the 53" wall width (v11). (The "11" figure in earlier drafts was carried over from the long N/S walls and is wrong for a 5' gable end.) Gable studs above the top plate are additional and cut to the roof angle after raising.
Above the top plate: gable studs of varying heights forming the triangle to the ridge peak (v11: 20" rise, 8:12 pitch). Cut these after the wall is raised so you can measure to the actual roof angle.

West wall (Sheet A9 — gable, simplest)

Same structure as the east gable wall (5 full-height studs per A9), but with the chicken pop-door framing near the NW corner instead of the nest cluster, and the storage-cabinet integration on the west interior.
Mostly standard 16" o.c. studs
Gable studs cut after raising

✓ CHECKPOINT

End of Phase 3: All 4 walls are framed flat on the deck, with bottom plate, single top plate, all studs, jacks, kings, headers, sills, and cripples in place. Walls are square (verified diagonals). The second top plate of the doubled top plate is installed on each wall. Walls aren't raised yet.

Phase 4 · Wall raising and bracing

Estimated time: Half day (with helper)

Lift the framed walls into position one at a time. This phase requires a helper — walls weigh 100-150 lbs each and can't be safely raised alone.

Order of raising

Raise N wall first (the long wall — sets the building length)
Then S wall (parallel, same length)
Then E wall (fits between N and S)
Then W wall (fits between N and S)

Steps for each wall

Step 1. Position the wall along its bottom plate location, with the bottom plate flat against the floor edge. The wall will pivot up from this position.Step 2. Pre-attach a temporary 2×4 brace to the wall at one stud near the middle (just nail it loosely so it can swing). The brace will be staked or screwed to the floor or to a kicker block.Step 3. With your helper, lift the wall by the top plate. Keep the bottom plate against the floor edge — it acts as the pivot. The wall rises like a hinged plane. Two adults can typically raise a 10' × 5'-3" wall.Step 4. Once the wall is vertical, plumb it (use the 4' level on a stud face). Adjust until plumb.Step 5. Drive 16d nails or 3" screws through the bottom plate into the floor framing below. Use a nail every 16" on center. The wall is now permanently attached.Step 6. Stake or fasten the temporary brace to keep the wall plumb during subsequent work. Don't remove braces until the roof is on.Step 7. Repeat for each wall. Walls 2-4 also nail into the adjacent walls' end studs (corner connections). 16d nails or structural screws every 12" o.c. through the corner stud.

⚠ SAFETY

Walls can fall over before they're fastened. Have your helper hold the wall plumb while you nail the bottom plate. Don't try to raise walls in windy conditions — even a light gust on a 10' wall can knock it over with serious injury risk.

! WATCH OUT

Don't fasten the bottom plate down until you've verified the wall is plumb. Once the bottom plate is nailed, plumbing the wall requires undoing your work.

✓ CHECKPOINT

End of Phase 4: All 4 walls are raised, plumb, square, and nailed to the floor. Corners are nailed together. Temporary diagonal braces are in place to keep walls plumb until the roof goes on. The structure is now a topless box.

Phase 5 · Roof framing

Estimated time: 2 days

Cut and install all 18 rafters, the ridge board, collar ties, hurricane ties, and frame the cupola opening. This is the most technical phase — rafter cuts must be precise.

Materials for this phase

8 × 2×6 SPF × 12' (cut R-1: 22 × 44" rafter blanks — includes 4 trimmer rafters; v11)
1 × 2×8 SPF × 10' (ridge board)
18 × Simpson H1 hurricane ties + nails
Collar ties: 4 × 20" cut from W01 2×4 SPF stock (v11; rafter cutoffs are only 12")
16d framing nails

Cut the rafters

Step 1. Cut all 22 rafter blanks at 44" length first (v11). Use the same cut for all — they're identical rafters at this stage (you'll cut birdsmouths and plumb cuts after).Step 2. Mark the plumb cut at the ridge end. Use a speed square set to the 8:12 pitch (or measure: 8 rise per 12 run translates to ~33.7° from horizontal; the speed square has pitch markings).Step 3. Mark the birdsmouth: from the ridge end, measure 30" along the rafter top edge to the heel point (v11; was 36"). Mark the heel cut (vertical, parallel to the plumb cut at the ridge) and the seat cut (horizontal, 3.5" wide to match the top plate's bearing surface). See Detail A on Sheet A11.Step 4. Mark the tail end: from the heel point, measure 8" along the rafter for the eave overhang, then mark a plumb cut at the tail. The rafter from ridge to tail is 8" + 30" = 38" horizontal projection (≈ 44" along the slope for v11; was 52" in v10 with 36" half-span).Step 5. Cut one rafter as a template. Test fit it against the wall and a temporary ridge support. Adjust until it sits properly, then cut the rest using the template.Step 6. Repeat birdsmouth and ridge cuts on all 22 rafters using the template as a marking guide.

💡 TIP

Save your first cut rafter as a template. Don't install it until you've verified it fits correctly, then use it to mark all the others. If your first rafter has an error, you only have one wrong rafter — not 22.

Install the ridge

Step 7. Cut the 12" × 7.25" cupola airflow notch in the 2×8 ridge board. Notch is centered along the ridge length (at coop-x ≈ 54-66) and goes from the ridge bottom up 3.5" (so air can flow through but the ridge maintains structural continuity above).Step 8. Lift the ridge board into position with two helpers. Support it temporarily on the gable end walls (it will rest on the gable framing temporarily until rafters lock it in place). The ridge runs E-W along the centerline, ridge top at v11: 83" above the floor (was 87" in v10 with 24" rise).Step 9. Brace the ridge so it doesn't sag during rafter installation.

Install rafters

Step 10. Install rafters in pairs starting from one gable end. Place a rafter on each side of the ridge at the same E-W position, with both birdsmouth notches resting on the top plate and both ridge cuts bearing against the ridge board.Step 11. Toe-nail each rafter to the ridge board (3 × 16d nails per rafter at the ridge) and to the top plate via the birdsmouth seat (2-3 × 16d nails at each seat).Step 12. Install Simpson H1 hurricane tie at each rafter-to-plate connection. The H1 wraps from the rafter side down to the top plate side. Nail with 8 nails per H1 (4 in rafter, 4 in plate).Step 13. Continue installing rafter pairs at 16" o.c. positions: 0, 16, 32, 48, 64, 80, 96, 112, 120 (9 pair locations).Step 14. Frame the cupola opening before installing roof sheathing. Skip the rafter at coop-x=64 (it would fall inside the opening). Install doubled trimmer rafters at coop-x=48 and coop-x=80 (sister boards alongside the regular rafters at these positions). Add a 2×6 header rafter at the cupola opening top edge, perpendicular to rafters and between the trimmers. Verify trimmer and header positions against Sheet A10 before fastening — the cupola will not sit correctly if these are mislocated.

Install collar ties

Step 15. Cut 4 collar ties at 20" each (cut R-3, v11). Source from W01 2×4 stock — v11 rafter cutoffs are only 12", too short for collar ties (v10 used the 40" rafter cutoffs for this). Install each collar tie between a rafter pair, ~20" below the ridge. Skip the cupola zone (no collar ties between rafters at 48 or 80, since the cupola opening interrupts).Step 16. Nail each collar tie with 3-4 × 16d nails into each rafter.

Cupola framing

Step 17. Build the cupola structure on the ground first (much easier than at height). The cupola is a 22"×22" box, 12" tall walls with louvers, an 8" hipped roof, and a 2" finial (per Detail D on Sheet A11).Step 18. Cupola base frame: a 22"×22" rectangle of 2×4 PT, sized to fit within the cupola opening in the roof.Step 19. Cupola walls: 4 × 2×2 corner posts, 12" tall. Connect with 2×2 top and bottom plates.Step 20. Cupola louvers: 4-5 × 1×4 slats per side, angled downward-outward. Add hardware cloth backing for predator/insect screening.Step 21. Cupola roof: 4 hip rafters meeting at the peak, 8" rise. Sheath with OSB scraps.Step 22. Lift the assembled cupola onto the roof at the cupola opening. Fasten the base frame to the trimmer rafters and header rafter. Flash the base perimeter to prevent water entry.

! WATCH OUT

Roof work is high-risk. Use a ladder rated for your weight + tools. Don't lean over the eaves — work from inside the structure where possible. Have a helper on the ground for tool handoff. Don't work in wind or rain.

✓ CHECKPOINT

End of Phase 5: All 18 rafters + 4 trimmer doubles installed. Ridge board in place with cupola airflow notch cut. All hurricane ties installed. Collar ties at non-cupola rafter pairs. Cupola assembled and installed at the ridge. Roof framing is complete and ready for sheathing.

Phase 6 · Roof sheathing and roofing

Estimated time: 1-2 days

Sheath the roof with OSB, install drip edge, felt underlayment, and shingles. After this phase, the structure is weatherproof — a major milestone.

Materials for this phase

4 × ½" OSB 4×8 sheets
8d ring shank nails (1 box)
4 × 10' drip edge metal pieces
1 × 30# roofing felt roll
3 × architectural shingle bundles (hunter green)
1 × hip and ridge shingle bundle
1 lb roofing nails (1¼" galvanized)
1 piece roof flashing (cupola base)
1 tube roofing cement

Steps

Step 1. Install ½" OSB sheets on the rafters. Start at one eave corner. Place the first sheet with its 8' edge along the eave, 4' edge running up the slope. Leave a ⅛" gap between adjacent sheets for thermal expansion.Step 2. Nail OSB to rafters with 8d ring shank nails: 6" o.c. on edges, 12" o.c. in field.Step 3. Cut around the cupola opening with a circular saw (carefully — verify cupola location first). Trim the cupola flashing in this opening before installing the cupola.Step 4. Continue sheathing on the same side until complete, then mirror on the other side.Step 5. Install drip edge metal along the eaves first (over the OSB, under the felt that will come next). Nail every 12" with roofing nails.Step 6. Install 30# roofing felt over the entire roof, starting at the eaves and overlapping each course by 4" upslope. Run the felt over the ridge with about 6" overlap on the opposite side. Nail with cap nails or staples.Step 7. Install drip edge along the rakes (gable edges) over the felt. Nail every 12".Step 8. Install starter strip shingles along the eaves (cut from regular shingles or use a starter strip product).Step 9. Install the first course of shingles, aligned with the eave edge. Each shingle gets 4 nails per manufacturer spec, placed in the nail line.Step 10. Continue installing shingles in courses upslope. Stagger the seams between courses. The shingle pattern (3-tab vs architectural) determines the offset; follow manufacturer instructions.Step 11. When you reach the cupola, cut shingles to fit around the cupola base. Apply roofing cement and flashing tape to seal the perimeter.Step 12. When you reach the ridge, install shingles up to within 4" of the ridge on each side. Stop here.Step 13. Install hip and ridge cap shingles along the ridge. These are smaller, pre-cut shingles that bend over the ridge. Nail through both sides.Step 14. Apply roofing cement to seal the cupola base flashing perimeter and any nail heads exposed at the ridge cap.

💡 TIP

Don't try to shingle without a starter strip — starter prevents wind from getting under the first course. Buy a starter strip product or cut it from the bottom of one shingle bundle.

! WATCH OUT

Roofing felt and shingles are slippery, especially in heat. Don't try to roof in temperatures over 90°F (shingles get gummy) or under 40°F (shingles crack). 60-80°F is ideal.

✓ CHECKPOINT

End of Phase 6: Roof is fully sheathed, felted, and shingled. Drip edge installed at eaves and rakes. Cupola integrated and flashed. Ridge cap shingles in place. Roof is watertight. You can hose-test by spraying with a garden hose if rain isn't expected soon.

Phase 7 · Siding, trim, and fascia

Estimated time: 2-3 days

Install board-and-batten siding, fascia, corner boards, and window/door trim. This is largely an aesthetic phase but also weather-protects the wall sheathing.

Materials for this phase

28 × 1×8 pine × 8' (B&B boards — v11)
23 × 1×3 pine × 8' (B&B battens — v11)
4 × 1×6 pine × 10' (fascia)
6 × 1×4 pine × 8' (corner boards)
8 × 1×4 pine × 8' (window/door trim)
Exterior trim screws (1 box)
Construction adhesive (2 tubes)
Exterior caulk (3 tubes)

Order of work

Install fascia first (along eaves and rakes)
Install corner boards
Install window/door trim around openings
Install B&B siding boards (vertical, between trim)
Install battens last (covering board seams)
Caulk all joints

Steps

Step 1. Install fascia: nail 1×6 fascia along the bottom of the eave overhangs (N and S sides) and along the rake edges (E and W gable slopes). Use 8d galvanized finish nails or trim screws. Miter the corners where eave fascia meets rake fascia.Step 2. Install corner boards at each of the 4 building corners. Corner boards are 1×4 pine, attached vertically. Each corner has 2 boards: one on the N or S face, one on the E or W face. They wrap the corner with a tight butt joint.Step 3. Install window/door trim: 1×4 pine pieces around each opening. Trim is mitered at corners or butted (your choice — butted is faster). Trim should overhang the opening by ½-1" on the casing side.Step 4. Cut B&B siding boards (1×8) to wall heights. North and south wall boards: 63" (eave height). East and west wall boards: variable, up to 83" at the gable peak in v11 (was 87"); cut to follow gable slope.Step 5. Install B&B boards starting from one corner. Place the first board against the corner board with a small gap (1/16") for paint. Drive 2½" exterior screws through the board into the wall studs (top, middle, bottom).Step 6. Continue installing boards across the wall, leaving a ~3" gap between boards (the batten will cover the gap). Use a spacer block (a piece of 1×3 cut to ~3") to maintain consistent spacing.Step 7. When you reach openings (windows, doors, cleanouts), butt the boards against the trim. Cut shorter boards above and below openings as needed.Step 8. After all 1×8 boards are installed on a wall, install the 1×3 battens. Each batten centers over a board seam (covers the gap and the edge of each adjacent board). Nail or screw with 1¼" finish screws.Step 9. Repeat for all 4 walls (N, S, E, W).Step 10. Caulk all joints: corner boards, trim-to-siding joints, fascia-to-roof joints. Use exterior silicone caulk for permanent flexible joints.

💡 TIP

Pre-prime the cut ends of all 1×8 and 1×3 pine boards before installation. Cut ends are most prone to absorbing water and rotting. A quick coat of primer adds years of life.

✓ CHECKPOINT

End of Phase 7: All 4 walls are sided with board-and-batten. Fascia, corner boards, and window/door trim are installed. All joints are caulked. The structure looks like a finished cottage from outside (minus paint).

Phase 8 · Doors, windows, and hardware

Estimated time: 2 days

Install all doors, salvage windows, hinges, latches, and the chicken pop door. Most of this is built in place using pre-cut 1×6 T&G boards.

Steps

Step 1. Install salvage windows: insert each 24"×24" slider into its rough opening on the N wall. Shim level and plumb. Drive screws through the window's nailing flange (or jamb) into the rough framing. Caulk the perimeter exterior. Repeat for the second slider.Step 2. Install the 72"×12" transom on the S wall: insert into its RO at coop-x=5.5-77.5. Shim, screw through the frame into the rough opening, caulk the exterior. Since the transom is fixed (no opening), this is faster than the sliders.Step 3. Build the Dutch door (if not pre-fab). Top half and bottom half each consist of ~5-6 × 1×6 T&G boards (29" tall) attached to a 1×4 frame with corner brackets. Sand and pre-prime.Step 4. Install Dutch door: hang the bottom half first using 2 × 6" strap hinges. Hinge on the EAST edge so both halves swing OUTWARD (to the south, away from the coop interior) — this keeps the door arc outside the coop and clear of the 36" interior entry zone and the south-wall access panels. Hang the top half above with 2 more strap hinges (also east-hinged). Verify the halves swing freely and meet at the middle when both closed. Install latches: one on the bottom (predator-proof), one to keep the halves together when both closed (Dutch door hardware sold as a set). Add a 1×2 astragal trim strip: attach to the bottom half's top edge so it overlaps the gap between the two halves by ~½" when both are closed. The astragal prevents raccoons from prying at the horizontal split seam (a classic Dutch door weak point).Step 5. Build cleanout doors: 2 × bottom-hinged drop-down panels, 38" wide × 22" tall, made from 1×6 T&G on a 1×4 frame. Install each with 2 × 4" T-hinges along the bottom edge. Add a chain or rope to limit downward swing to 90°. Install a top-edge latch to hold closed.Step 6. Build storage door: bottom-hinged drop-down, 38" wide × 16" tall, similar construction to cleanouts. Install on west lower position (coop-x=2-40, y=6-22).Step 7. Build access panel: same as storage door, 38" wide × 16" tall, on east lower position (coop-x=43-81, y=6-22).Step 8. Build chicken pop door: 12" wide × 14" tall, sliding or auto-opener kit. Install on... pick a location based on your run access plan (typically east wall, low). Build a guide track for sliding, or follow the auto-opener installation instructions.Step 9. Build run access door: built from 1×4 PT frame + hardware cloth, 30" wide × 67" tall. Install at the run east end with hinges and a predator-proof latch. The 67" height gives walk-through clearance (you'll only bow your head ~1" at 5'-8" tall) since the door top is flush with the bottom of the 2×6 top rail. The top rail itself serves as the door header — no separate header needed.Step 10. Build cabinet interior door: 1×4 frame + hardware cloth, 42" wide × 22" tall. Install on the north face of the cabinet. Top-hinged.Step 11. Build 3 × nest box drop-down panels (v11.3): each 14" wide × 14" tall, 1×6 T&G on small frames. Install with T-hinges along the bottom edge, hold-open chains, and top-edge latches.

💡 TIP

Predator-proof latches matter. Raccoons can open simple gravity latches. Use spring-loaded gate latches with a removable pin (raccoons can defeat thumb latches but not pinned latches). On the Dutch door and run door, this is critical.

✓ CHECKPOINT

End of Phase 8: All doors and panels are installed and operational. Salvage windows are sealed and weatherproof. Latches function. Hinges are properly aligned. You can open every access panel and reach into the coop interior.

Phase 9 · Interior fixtures

Estimated time: 1-2 days

Build and install the storage cabinet, poop shelf, roost bars, and nest box cluster. These are the chickens' actual living spaces.

Steps

Step 1. Install the poop shelf: cut ½" CDX plywood to 38" × 84" (cut P-1; v11). Mount against the south wall, full 84" width, at 22" above the floor, supported by ledger boards (1×4 strips screwed to wall studs at 22" elevation) plus the cabinet top on the west half. The shelf's north edge sits 6" north of the cabinet door face — that 6" cantilever is carried by a 2×2/2×4 cleat fastened to the wall studs along the shelf's north edge (the north roost bar loads this line). The shelf catches droppings from both roost bars.Step 2. Build the storage cabinet: assemble the cabinet box from ½" CDX plywood cuts (P-2 through P-5). The cabinet is the enclosed WEST HALF under the shelf, sitting on the floor against the west and south walls. 42"W × 32"D × 22"H interior (v11). Its north door face is set 6" south of the shelf's north edge, so the shelf overhangs it. The EAST HALF under the shelf is left open as a hen refuge (no cabinet there).Step 3. Install hardware cloth on the cabinet's interior north face (the side facing the chickens) for ventilation. Top-hinge a cabinet door over this hardware cloth opening for access.Step 4. Install roost bars: 2 × 7' (84") lengths of 2×4 SPF (one 84" bar per 8' board — two 84" bars cannot come from a single 96" board, so 2 boards are required; see cut list), edges sanded round. Mount horizontally E-W, flat (wide face up), 30" above the floor, spanning the full 84" shelf width. South bar 16" from the south wall, north bar 32" from the south wall (16" gap between bars; v11). Hens face north; the 38" shelf catches droppings even if a north-bar hen roosts facing south.Step 5. Build the nest cluster: assemble the 3-bay nest cluster from ½" CDX cuts (P-6 through P-8). Each bay is 14"W × 14"D × 14-16"H (v11.3; larger boxes for the heavy breeds, 42" total width leaving 6" framing clearance each side in the 54" interior). Mount on the east interior wall at 14-28" above floor.Step 6. Install astroturf mats inside each nest bay (sloped slightly forward toward the egg collection lip).Step 7. Install the nest box drop-down panels (built in Phase 8): each panel covers one nest bay opening on the east wall exterior.Step 8. Install foam padding in the egg tray (in front of the nest bays, exterior).Step 9. Install the chicken pop door if not done in Phase 8.Step 10. Install rolled linoleum / sheet vinyl on the coop floor. Cut to ~5'-4" × 10'-4" so it runs up each wall about 2-3" as a cove base (v11) — this prevents droppings, shavings, and moisture from getting into the wall-to-floor joint where mites and rot like to live. Use a utility knife and a straightedge for clean cuts. Glue down with floor adhesive or contact cement (or use the self-adhesive type). Press out air bubbles with a J-roller or a rolling pin. Cap the upturned edge against the wall with a thin trim strip (¼-round molding) for a clean look — paint to match. This single change makes coop cleaning 10× faster: just hose/scrape the floor without worrying about wood absorbing moisture.

💡 TIP

Roost bars should be 2-3" wide and have rounded edges. Chickens grip with their feet and need a flat-topped surface, not a rounded perch like a wild bird. A 2×4 with the top corners sanded round is ideal. Don't use a round dowel.

✓ CHECKPOINT

End of Phase 9: Interior is functional. Poop shelf is mounted. Cabinet is installed and accessible. Roost bars are in place. Nest cluster is mounted with all 3 bays and drop-down panels working. Chickens could move in tomorrow.

Phase 10 · Painting and finishing

Estimated time: 1-2 days (with drying time)

Prime and paint all exterior surfaces. The white siding gets weatherproofing protection, and the trim gets the orange accent color.

Steps

Step 1. Sand all rough spots and fill any gaps or nail holes with exterior wood filler. Let dry.Step 2. Apply exterior primer to all bare wood surfaces. Use a 2.5" brush for trim and a 9" roller for siding boards. Let dry per manufacturer instructions (typically 4-6 hours).Step 3. Apply first coat of white exterior paint to all siding (1×8 boards, 1×3 battens, fascia). Use a roller for speed; use a brush for cutting in around trim and details.Step 4. Apply orange (#FE5000 or similar accent) paint to door, corner boards, and window/door trim. Use a brush for precision.Step 5. Let first coat dry, then apply second coat of each color. Two coats are essential for outdoor longevity.Step 6. Touch up any drips or holidays after the paint dries.

💡 TIP

Paint when temperatures are between 50-85°F and no rain is expected for 24 hours. Morning is usually best — paint can flow well, and you have all day to dry.

Phase 11 · Hardware cloth installation

Estimated time: 1 day

Install hardware cloth on all openings and predator-proofing locations: skirt around base, predator apron at ground, run walls, vents, and louvers.

Steps

Step 1. Cut hardware cloth pieces with tin snips. Wear gloves — cut edges are sharp.Step 2. Install skirt around the coop base: 18" tall hardware cloth wrapped around the 30' coop perimeter (v11: 2 × 5' + 2 × 10' = 30 linear feet; was 32 lf in v10), attached with poultry staples to the bottom plates. Predators can't dig under because the skirt extends below grade.Step 3. Install predator apron: an L-shaped piece of hardware cloth that extends 18" out from the coop perimeter at ground level. Bury or pin to the ground. Stops predators from digging straight down.Step 4. Install hardware cloth in cupola louvers (backing the wood slats). Cut 22" × 22" panels to fit each louvered side.Step 5. Install hardware cloth on slider window screens (interior side, behind the glass). Each slider gets a 24" × 24" panel.Step 6. Install hardware cloth on cabinet interior door (north face). 42" × 22" panel.Step 7. Install hardware cloth on nest box backs (interior, behind the panels). Stops mice from getting in via the egg drop slot.Step 8. Save remaining hardware cloth for run construction (Phase 12).

⚠ SAFETY

Hardware cloth ends are like miniature knives. Bend or fold over all cut edges, or cover with trim. Don't leave sharp edges where chickens or humans can be cut.

Phase 12 · Run construction

Estimated time: 2-3 days

Build the 16' × 4' run on the west side of the coop. Run corner posts already sit in EPB44HDG brackets on concrete footers; mid-span posts already sit in deck-block notches with rebar pins (all set in Phase 1). This phase frames the walls, installs the asymmetric shed roof, wraps with hardware cloth, and connects the run to the coop's chicken door.

Steps

Step 1. Verify before cutting: south-edge posts (high side) are taller than north-edge posts (low side); corner posts (in EPB44HDG brackets) are slightly different from mid-span posts (in deck blocks). Do not cut any run post until you've confirmed which group it belongs to. Once verified, cut to height. Typical cuts: south corner ~75", south mid-span ~73"; north corner ~63", north mid-span ~61". Measure each post's actual situation against its bracket or block before cutting — heights vary by a half-inch or more once concrete is set. When in doubt, cut conservatively long and trim later.Step 2. Install the corner posts first (the 4 in EPB44HDG brackets). Drop each cut post into its bracket saddle and fasten with (8) 0.162" × 3½" nails per bracket, filling every hole (Simpson’s specified EPB44HDG fastener; (8) SD10 1½" connector screws per bracket are the approved screw alternative). Verify each corner post is plumb in both directions. The corner posts are now the rigid reference points for the entire run.Step 3. Install mid-span posts (the 4 in deck-block notches). Drop each post into its block notch. Verify the post top is at the same elevation as the corner posts on the same long edge (use a string line stretched between corner post tops along the south edge, and another along the north edge). Drive a 3" lag screw through the deck block's pre-drilled side hole into the post to secure. The mid-span posts are now level with the corners.Step 4. Install the bottom rails: 2×4 PT between the corner and mid-span posts along each long wall. The bottom rail sits 2-3" above grade — at the top of the deck blocks for mid-span sections, and at about 2" above the EPB44HDG base for corner sections. Slight elevation differences are fine; the rail rests on whatever's lower and screws to the post above, and the skirt board (next step) closes any visible gap.Step 5. Install the perimeter skirt board: 1×6 PT around the entire run perimeter (N, S, E, W edges), attached to the outside face of the bottom rail and extending down to grade. This closes the gap between the bottom rail (sitting on the deck blocks) and the ground, hides the deck blocks, and provides a continuous attachment surface for the hardware cloth. Pre-drill and use 3" deck screws.Step 6. Install the top rails: 2×6 PT between the posts along each long wall. The south wall's top rail sits at 6'-6" above grade (the high side); the north wall's top rail sits at 5'-6" (the low side). Use 2×6 (not 2×4) for the top rail because each rail spans 5'-4" between posts, and a 2×4 would sag under snow load; the deeper 2×6 prevents this. Toenail or use 3" structural screws into the posts.Step 7. Frame the run roof: 9 × 2×6 SPF rafters at 24" o.c. running across the 4' span between the S and N top rails. Cut each rafter to ~50" total length (the 49.5" pythagoras length plus a few inches for overhang and birdsmouth notches). Notch a 3:12 birdsmouth where each rafter meets the top rail. Verify rafters slope downward toward the north side before fastening permanently — the south top rail is high (6'-6") and the north top rail is low (5'-6"). Reverse this and rainwater drains toward the yard instead of away from it. Once orientation is confirmed, toenail or use Simpson rafter ties at each end.Step 8. Cover the roof: ½" OSB sheathing on top of the rafters, then 30# felt and asphalt shingles to match the coop. Or use the savings option: hardware cloth canopy instead of solid roof (saves ~$220 but provides no rain protection — chickens can shelter in the coop in bad weather).Step 9. Add intermediate wall studs: 2×3 SPF at ~24" o.c. between the top and bottom rails on each long wall. These provide hardware cloth attachment points. End walls (E and W) also get vertical studs if needed.Step 10. Install all knee braces and reinforce every rail-to-post joint with structural screws before attaching hardware cloth. Braces are required to resist racking; once the cloth is on, retrofitting is harder.

Cut 8 short 2×4 braces, each about 24" long with 45° cuts at both ends. Install one at each of the 4 run corners — alternate which long wall they brace so you end up with 2 braces on the N side and 2 on the S side. Add one on each side of the run access door opening (2 more, for 8 total). Each brace runs from a post down (or up) to the bottom or top rail at 45°. Attach with #10 × 3½" structural wood screws, 2 per end.
At every rail-to-post connection (top and bottom rail meeting each post), drive 2 × #10 × 3½" structural screws through the rail face into the post end-grain. Do not rely on toenails alone here — they will loosen under lateral load. Total: ~32 screws for long-wall rail connections, plus ~32 for the brace ends. Plan on roughly 64 structural screws in this step.

Step 11. Wrap all run walls with ½" hardware cloth from floor to roof, attaching to studs, rails, and skirt board. On intermediate studs (low-stress areas), fasten with poultry staples every 4-6". At door frames, all four corners, top-rail attachment points, and the joint where the skirt board meets the ground, fasten with #8 self-tapping screws and neoprene washers every 6-8". Do not rely on staples alone in these high-stress areas — raccoons can peel stapled mesh loose. Overlap seams 2-3" and fasten both edges.Step 12. Extend hardware cloth as a predator apron: 18" outward at the base of each wall, bent at 90° from the vertical wall cloth. Pin into the soil with landscape staples every 12". Cover lightly with topsoil or mulch (the cloth disappears in 6 months under grass growth).Step 13. Install the run access door (built in Phase 8, 30" × 67"). Mount on the south side of the run at the east end, immediately adjacent to the coop's west wall. The door top sits flush with the bottom of the 2×6 top rail (the rail is the integrated header). Hinge on the east side so the door swings open to the west (away from coop) — this prevents the door from hitting the coop when opening. Use 3 heavy hinges on the east-side post and a predator-proof latch (gate latch with eye + spring clip) on the west-side free edge.Step 14. Connect run to coop at the east end. The run's east end abuts the coop's west wall, where the chicken pop door (at the NW corner of the coop) opens into the run. Trim any gaps with 1×4 PT and seal with hardware cloth so there's no predator gap where the run meets the coop. At the top corner where the run roof meets the coop wall, install metal step flashing to direct water away from the joint, and wrap hardware cloth over the same junction to close any gap where the roof framing meets the coop wall.

💡 TIP

The run can be built in good weather while the coop interior dries paint. It's a parallel task that doesn't require the coop to be finished.

! WATCH OUT

Verify each mid-span post is screwed to its deck block before loading the framing. Corner posts are locked into concrete via their EPB44HDG brackets; mid-span posts depend on the lag screw and the rebar pin below the block for their anchoring. After installation, push-test the run: lean hard against the top rail at each corner. The structure must feel solid, not springy. If it racks noticeably, recheck the knee braces and the structural screws at the corner connections before continuing.

Phase 13 · Final inspection and chickens

Estimated time: Half day

Inspect everything. Add bedding, food, water. Welcome chickens.

Final inspection checklist

Walk around the structure exterior. Look for any gaps, unsealed joints, exposed wood, missing hardware cloth.Check every door, panel, and latch. They should all open, close, and lock properly.Verify hardware cloth at every opening: cleanouts, sliders, transom, cupola, vents, run walls, predator apron.Check the floor for splinters or sharp screws — chickens walk barefoot.Verify roost bars don't have splinters or cracks.Verify nest cluster panels work; eggs roll forward to collection slot.Check for predator-vulnerable spots: under the coop (skirt + apron must be intact), at the chicken pop door (close at night), at the cupola (louvers + hardware cloth).Run an exterior hose test: spray water at the roof, walls, and joints. Check interior for leaks.

Adding chickens

Bedding: pine shavings (NOT cedar — toxic to chickens) or chopped straw, 4-6" deep on the floor.
Food: pellet feeder, grit, oyster shell. Mount feeders off the floor (at chicken back height) to reduce waste.
Water: nipple-style waterer or open waterer. Heated waterer for SLC winters (below 32°F).
Introduce chickens slowly: place them inside the closed coop overnight first, then release into the run the next morning. They'll learn the coop is "home" and return at dusk.

💡 TIP

Don't have 15 chickens immediately. Start with 4-6 and add more if needed. Egg production from 6 hens is typically 4-5 eggs per day at peak — plenty for most families. 15 hens may be more than you need.

✓ CHECKPOINT

Build complete! Take photos for documentation. Note maintenance items: shingle inspection annually, repaint every 5-7 years, replace bedding monthly, clean nest boxes weekly, clean poop shelf daily.

Maintenance schedule

Daily

Collect eggs (typically morning)
Refresh water (rinse and refill)
Quick clean of poop shelf (scrape into bucket, compost or trash)
Visual check of chickens (any lethargy, injury, lice/mites)

Weekly

Clean nest boxes (replace astroturf if soiled)
Refresh bedding (top off, full change every 4-6 weeks)
Check feed levels
Inspect run for predator dig attempts

Monthly

Full bedding change
Wash waterer and feeder
Inspect hardware cloth for damage
Check door hinges and latches

Annually

Full coop deep clean
Inspect roof shingles for damage
Re-caulk any cracks
Touch up paint where worn
Inspect framing for rot or pest damage

Every 5-7 years

Full repaint exterior
Replace heavily worn bedding storage areas
Re-tighten all framing connections

Every 20-25 years

Replace shingles
Inspect and possibly replace PT lumber at ground contact
Replace hardware cloth if degraded

Troubleshooting common issues

Doors don't close properly

Check that wall is plumb and corners are square — if framing shifted, doors stick
Adjust hinges or shim the strike plate
Sand the door edge if swelling from moisture

Water entering the coop

Check shingle nail penetrations near leak — apply roofing cement
Check window flashing — re-caulk perimeter
Check cupola flashing — most common leak point

Chickens not using nest boxes

Add fake eggs to teach them where to lay
Make sure boxes are dark and quiet (not exposed to bright light)
Check that bedding is fresh — chickens reject smelly nests

Predator signs

Dig marks at coop perimeter: predator apron may need extension
Hardware cloth pulled or torn: replace immediately, check fasteners
Missing chicken: secure all openings, install motion-detector light, consider electric fence

Heavy snow on roof

8:12 pitch sheds most snow naturally
If snow accumulates more than 12", clear with a roof rake from the ground
Don't climb on a snow-covered roof

Frozen waterer in winter

Use a heated waterer (electric, ~$30) or heated base
Position waterer in coop (not run) to slow freezing
Refill twice daily if no heater

Refer to architectural drawings (A1-A12) and materials list (coop-materials-list.xlsx) for visual references and precise quantities throughout the build.

Total estimated time: 15 build days (typically spread over 6-8 weekends for a part-time builder). Solo build is possible but slower; one helper accelerates significantly. Expect to learn as you go — your second wall will frame faster than your first.

Tap a step to check it off — your progress is saved on this phone. Tap ☰ Contents to jump to any phase.